Despite the cat’s reputation for fastidious cleanliness, house-soiling is the number one behavior problem of feline pets. Many cats are turned outside, given away, or even euthanized for this behavior problem.
Urinating in non-designated places can mean either a behavior problem or a medical problem. Sometimes the difference is not easily differentiated. Cats often urinate in unusual places to get their owner’s attention when they are not feeling well. Cats often urinate in improper places in order to reassert their claim to territory. Some cats have purely behavioral motivations without illness. Other cats simply have "litter box aversion."
House soiling can have an underlying medical cause. Some of the diseases that can cause a change in elimination behavior include:
- diabetes
- kidney disease
- bladder infection
- bladder stones
- diseases that increase stools or cause discomfort during defecation
- thyroid disease
- nervous system diseases (tumors, cognitive dysfunction)
One common cause of inappropriate elimination is
Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disease (also known as "Feline Urologic Syndrome"). FLUTD involves straining to urinate, genital licking, discomfort, bloody urine, and often urinating in unusual places. There are many causes for this syndrome, including psychological stress. It is important to observe for the signs listed in addition to inappropriate urination.
Your veterinarian should evaluate your cat, his urinary behaviors, and the chemical composition of his urine before you conclude that the problem is due to behavioral problems. This is done by obtaining a complete medical history, doing a complete medical exam, and obtaining a sterile urine sample (usually by cystocentesis). Your veterinarian may do a complete urinalysis as well as a urine culture if necessary to determine if your cat has a urinary infection or other medically related urinary problem.
Cats use urination and defecation as a means of communication with other cats. By leaving their "mark," they are telling other cats "I was here on this date, and this time." Other cats may then know this area has been claimed by that cat. Psychological stress (such as the presence of other cats), the prolonged absence of the owner, or other environmental problems may create a need for a cat to reassert a territorial claim.
Signs that this kind of stress is causing inappropriate behavior include the following:
- Spraying on an upright surface.
- Inconsistently urinating in the litter box.
- Defecating in the litter box, but urinating outside the litter box.
- The cat (either male or female) is not neutered.
- There has been a change at home causing the cat to feel he/she must reassert his/her territorial boundaries.
- A new pet has been added to the household.
- A new roommate has been added to the household.
- A recent move to a new home.
- Remodeling.
- The owner recently returned from a vacation.
- Other neighborhood cats are visible or your cat can smell other cats in the yard.
- The area marked is near a door or window.
- The problem did not start until new furniture was added or the furniture was rearranged.
- The cat appears to be responding to a punishment for another behavior.
- The area marked involves the owner’s bed or laundry.
- The area marked is the same each time.
FELIWAY SPRAY & DIFFUSER: These are new alternative treatments for territorial marking. Feliway products are not a medication administered to cats. The spray and diffuser consist of feline pheromones of the type that cats deposit when performing facial marking (rubbing their face/cheeks on things to scent mark). These pheromones have a general calming effect which helps neutralize the urge to urine mark. Feliway should be used twice daily for at least one month before determining if it is effective.
A recent study was conducted involving 57 households with urine spraying cats. These cats marked on either vertical surfaces only or a combination of vertical and horizontal surfaces. Feliway spray was used twice a day on the urine marked areas for a one month period. In 1/3 of households, urine marking stopped completely. In 57% of the households, urine marking was reduced, and in 9.3% of households marking was unchanged.
Hunthausen, W. Evaluating a feline facial pheromone analogue to control urine spraying.
Veterinary Medicine, Feb 2000, p 151 - 155
Another reason why cats urinate or defecate outside the box is simply that the box is not acceptable to them. The box may be dirty, may not be adequately private, may smell funny or be uncomfortable. The following are clues that an inappropriate urination problem reflects “litter box aversion.”: 1) urination does not involve spraying vertical surfaces, and 2) both urination and defecation occur outside the litter box.
A cat may avoid the litter box or prefer to eliminate in locations or surfaces other than his litter box because:
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Two or more cats share a litter box. The current litter box recommendation is one box per cat plus one extra.
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A new brand of litter is being used. He may not like the type, depth, or scent of the new litter.
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He doesn’t like one or more attributes of the litter box (height, cover, self-cleaning mechanism, or litter liner).
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The box is not changed frequently enough. Litter boxes should be cleaned daily and refreshed with new litter at least once each week.
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The cat has had a negative experience in the box (the cat was captured from the box to receive medication or be disciplined).
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The litter box is in a heavy household traffic area. This may give him insufficient privacy.
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A puppy or dog is bothering the cat in the box.
Cats with this problem frequently require "re-training" to the box. As a first step, an additional litter box should be provided in a location separate from the original box. Many cats may feel the other box has been claimed by another household cat and are reluctant to use it or violate the other cat’s "territory." It is important not to keep the cat’s food in a location near the box as the cat will not want to use the feeding area as a toilet.
As the next step, some other type of litter should be provided to see if the cat prefers a different brand or type. If nothing seems to work, the cat should be confined in a small area with a litter box. The cat is gradually allowed more area after he/she has proven that he will use the box. (First, a small room such as a bathroom or playpen is allowed, next a large room is added etc. until the cat again has his usual access.)
Basic Litter Box Tips:
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Scoop all of the litter boxes daily & replace litter weekly.
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Provide at least 1 litter box per cat plus one extra per household.
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Clean soiled areas that will neutralize feline urine odor (Urine-Off).
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Offer 2-3 different types of litter (clay, clumping, pearls, recycled paper, scented, unscented) to determine which one your pet uses most.
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Place the preferred litter in a variety of litter box types (different heights, openings, with or without litter liner, covered or uncovered, self-cleaning).
If these tips are not effective in restoring the cat’s proper toilet behaviors, a behavior specialist should be consulted. Please contact your veterinarian for the best feline behavior specialist in your area.
Ultimately, the best way to control feline house soiling is spaying or neutering your cat. About 90% of neutered males and 95% of spayed females stop spraying after surgery.
www.marvistavet.com
www.veterinarypartner.com
www.healthypet.com-Litter Box Blues
Whitford Client Education Series, 3rd Edition
